Tuk-Tuk Talker

A Conclusion, But Also a Beginning...

2009-07-03T01:56:00.005+07:00

For anyone who is still occasionally checking or faithfully reading this blog, your commitment is commendable (and apparently far exceeds that of the blogger). My longest overdue blog posting is also going to be my last, at least for this season of life.

When we last saw our super hero and his heroine, their three-week escapade across the country visiting long lost family and friends, and making some more-than-overdue introductions, was commencing. So three weeks later - oh yeah, plus another month, my bad - these were the highlights:

-a walk down the Vegas strip, highlighted by the Bellagio's famous dancing fountain

-a river rapid ride down the Arkansas River outside of Colorado Springs where we even managed to stay in the boat

-some good, hearty Texas cooking and warm Texan hospitality

-the best of friends, and their four new baby daughters since I left for Sweden, in Kansas City

-an excursion up the Washington Monument, among other sites, in D.C.

-Polo with a prince (Harry), the arrival of a President and his Lady (Obama & Michelle), a bike ride all through Manhattan and a boat cruise around Lady Liberty in New York

And three exciting weeks of places and people came to an end, but not before...

...an engagement in Central Park.

So what started as a simple Swedish blog for family and friends soon became a jätte spännande look at Swedish culture and adventures, then unexpectedly turned into a blog about pursuing love in Thailand and concludes with an engagement after a successful American journey and an even more successful courtship!

Paige and I will start our life together in September.

I am blessed beyond my wildest dreams.

Perhaps one day the blogging will continue, but for now I will conclude with an article I wrote for Transitions Abroad, arguably the top online resource for those of us in the U.S. moving abroad for work and/or life. You Swedes will have one last kick out of my Swedish language attempt:

http://www.transitionsabroad.com/listings/study/articles/learning-swedish-in-sweden.shtml

Pictures above:

1. Soon after our engagement, Paige and I are as radiant as the sun behind us.

2. This diamond was my late Grandmother's. I am bewildered with blessings.

3. The U.S. Capitol building behind us.

4. A baseball game in Kansas City, Missouri.

5. The two most common blog contributors also made the final picture. From left, Sean, Paige, brother Todd, cousin Angela and husband Craig. Todd and Ang's faithful reading and comments, along with so many others, made this blog what it was. Thanks to all of you, family and friends, from Sweden and Europe to Thailand and SE Asia and back home in the States. Hej då, Sa-wa-dee, k'ap and good-bye for now.

A National Tour Commences in the Great Northwest

2009-05-14T14:31:00.003+07:00

After five years of living in the Northwestern United States, specifically Seattle, and with family just south in the state capital city of Olympia, we figured that the Great Northwest was a good place to start a trip across the country that will include seven cities in virtually every part of the US of A.

Paige and I both value relationships and have learned to keep in touch very well from afar, which means that, when we are finally back in town, the moments around the table with family and friends are numerous, memorable and savored.

Thanks to everyone up in Seattle and down in Olympia for making our welcome back to this great (some like me might say "the greatest") part of our country.

Check back to the Tuk-Tuk Talker for periodic updates from this cross-country trek over the next few weeks. Some more fun is in store...

1. Paige and I in front of the symbol of Seattle, the Space Needle.

2. With my cousins' kids - how they've grown (and been born) since I left the States in 2006.

3. Paige's brother's 6-month old, Zachariah.

4. With friends enjoying some classic Northwest Clam Chowder and the Olympic Mountain range at sunset. Good ol' Seattle: water, islands and snow-covered mountains all in the same spring scene.

5. Friends who are responsible for Paige and I meeting last summer. Dana, and yes, even Dave, where would we be without you?

Back Home - Southern California Fun

2009-05-14T14:08:00.003+07:00

As evidenced by the complete dismissal of my blogging responsibilities the past month, I'm having a blast being back home in Southern California. It's been a plethora of people and places, a frenzy of food and fun, a jobless joy for Paige and I. Truly a unique time of life as we transition back into life in the United States....

....for at least a little while.

Probably a couple more Tuk-Tuk Talker postings before the final conclusion.

Pictures above:

1. Those who've followed the blog the past few years know that the perfect welcome home is a trip back to Dodger Stadium. This one was on my birthday and provided by my friend, Jason Berns, who's been seen numerous times on Linköpinglivin' and the Tuk-Tuk Talker.

2. Catalina Island sits 26 miles off the California coast and is as close to the Mediterranean as we're gonna get in the USA. The iconic building in the main city of Avalon is the Casino, seen in the background of this picture, now no longer used for gambling.

3. This is a truly classic picture as my Dad surprised our family all the way from Prague for our annual extended family trip to Catalina. Here he catches my brother Todd (who only had to fly from New York), just before letting Paige and I in on the fun, too. Stunning - a surprise across the globe. Nice work, Dad.

4. Sean and Paige are still prepared for Bangkok, not Catalina.

5. An action shot of Captain Sean...

A Layover in Seoul, South Korea

2009-04-02T01:17:00.003+07:00

Rare is the direct flight these days from Bangkok to the United States. My choices of Hong Kong, Seoul and Beijing among others created an interesting choice of where I should layover for 12 hours. Hong Kong is, I have heard, simply a generic mega-city and Beijing would have required a $150 visa for exiting the airport.

Seoul it was.

Plus, I recently read that the Incheon Airport in Seoul was just voted the best airport in the world among people who supposedly know.

Impressions:

1. Cold (Seoul is at the same latitude as San Francisco - much cooler than Bangkok at about 55 degrees Celsius).

2. Clean and organized. Seoul and Korea rank as one of the most advanced Asian cities lacking a lot of the seeming chaos and disorganization found in other parts of Asia.

3. Kimchi, the well-known Korean vegetable dish - also well known for its smell - tastes a lot better than it smells. I had to at least try it in order to criticize it....

4. Korea is one of the few countries in the world that recognizes the wonder of baseball. Way to go, Korea.

5. Seoul would be a great city to spend about 4 - 5 days, then it would be time to get to the more authentic countryside.

Tough to be sandwiched between countries like Japan and China for all of history. Good to see Korea, at least the south, holding its own. North Korea is just a sad, sad story. These two countries should be united. Someday....

Pictures above:

1. In front of Gyeongbokgung Palace in short sleeves and 50 degrees.

2. The changing of the guard at the Palace.

3. Insadong market street - touristy, but fun.

4. Get this! I come around the corner on Insadong and see an auxiliary screen showing the World Baseball Classic taking place from, no kidding, Dodger Stadium. A live baseball game FROM Dodger Stadium while strolling in Korea. Globalization's a funny thing.

5. Cheonggyecheon River, a man-made but aesthetically-pleasing river through the heart of Seoul. Nice touch.

Watch for the conclusion of the Tuk-Tuk Talker coming soon! Home is a nice place to be now.

Thailand's Tuk-Tuks

2009-03-22T05:44:00.002+07:00

Writing during a layover at another Asian airport to be revealed soon, and while taking one last glance at the various Tuk-Tuks found throughout Thailand, I can share with the Tuk-Tuk Talker readership that my unexpected and enjoyable four months in Thailand has, at least for now, come to an end.

I am currently in Seoul, South Korea, passing the time until my flight to Los Angeles, the city I call home, but a place in which I have not spent much time the past ten years. It will be good to be home after three years of European and Southeast Asian travel in order to revel in family and friends and all that California and the United States have to offer.

After four months of dating abroad, Paige and I will treasure time at home and look to see what the future holds, but don't think that just because we're going home that the travels will conclude. Though we have scheduled trips to Seattle, Las Vegas, Denver, Dallas, Kansas City, Washington D.C. and New York to visit family and friends, the Tuk-Tuk Talker simply isn't valid outside of Southeast Asia. So after a couple more entries, the Tuk-Tuk Talker, and three years of travel blogging, will come to an appropriate conclusion as I return home.

One day soon I will return to Sweden. One day soon I will return to Thailand. I will continue to enjoy travel and enjoy, most of all, the people around the world found along the way.

A little update on Seoul and South Korea coming next week.

See you then.

A Tour of Thailand - A Visit From Friends

2009-03-20T22:38:00.003+07:00

Towards the end of our time, at least for now, in Thailand, Paige and I hosted friends from Southern California, Jason and Laura.

Hua Hin, Chiang Mai, Bangkok. Beaches, jungles, zip line, elephants, spicy food, fruit drinks. It was a vacation in Thailand, with all the best the wonderful Thai people have to offer. Thanks for a great 10 days, friends.

Just a few more submissions to the Tuk-Tuk Talker, everyone.

See you tomorrow for a special double dose this week and a bit more information about my plans.

Thailand Fun Facts

2009-03-09T08:12:00.003+07:00

To any of you paying attention, you know this blog was delayed almost a week. My consistency is starting to fail, perhaps a foreshadowing of what is coming, but for now, thanks for your patience....

Just some fun facts, that never quite fit in any one category, from Thailand that every traveller to Thailand should know:

Never touch the top of someone's head - just as the feet are considered a degrading part of the body and you should be conscious of them, the head is considered a sacred part and should not be casually touched.

In all of Asia, pedestrians do not, I repeat, DO NOT have the right-of-way on the streets. My advice when wanting to cross a street in Thailand is to wait for Thai people to lead the way and just follow....

While the outside roads and some public spaces may not be spic 'n span, the insides of all Thai homes and business are as clean as can be. Always remove those shoes so you don't get the spotless floor dirty. One of the images that will always be in my head from Thailand is the focused sweeping of floors and walkways by Thai people. Inside it's cleaner than anywhere in the Western world, including even Sweden!

In Thailand, it's all about the rice. The verb "to eat" in the Thai language even includes the word "rice."

Walking around Bangkok, there might not always be the friendly sidewalks you're used to when you're home. Just beware that an easy walk can become riddled with obstacles with only one turn. My advice of course is to take a tuk-tuk. Also highly recommended is the Sky Train above-ground subway. Great air-conditioning on that thing.

There's not really a "winter, spring, summer or fall" in Thailand or SE Asia. It's more like "rainy, hot, hotter or hottest." We're in the hotter season right now - April and May are the hottest.

Just a couple more entries on the Tuk-tuk talker, then things change...stay tuned.

Pictures above:

1. The Giant Swing, which people actually swung from "Buccaneer Ride-style" in the early 1900s, is one of about three or four iconic symbols of Bangkok.

2. Exotic orchids and lilies are quintessential tropical and always catch one's eye around here.

3. The Royal Barges, an oft-used symbol of royalty and regality in this water-dominated part of the world, are an overrated tourist attraction in Bangkok.

4. Tiki wood is seen everywhere in Thailand, but not always in this dining room table set-up example.

5. In any traffic jam, you wanna be in a tuk-tuk.

The Rickshaw Rider: An Excursion to India

2009-03-02T12:13:00.003+07:00

For about the last five years, I have wanted to experience the one country that most people declare is the most culturally opposite of the United States, and therefore the pinnacle of a travel adventure. That country is India and that experience happened the past 10 days.

Paige and I joined a group from her church that was traveling not to the most highly sought out cultural locations - we missed the Taj Mahal this time - but to what I think is truly the best way to experience a country: Get outta the cities and into the small towns and villages. Our time in one small city and surrounding endless villages (India has 1 billion people) and one large city was exhilarating, and inspiring.

Ongole is a small city close to the eastern coast above Chennai (Madras in the British Empire) and you are aware of Kolkata (Calcutta in the old British Empire), which alone has 60 million people. Yes, 60 million people, and it’s not even the largest city in India…

Some thoughts:

· Just standing on an Indian street, watching the motorbikes, auto-rickshaws, ox-carts, tour busses and herds of goats with goatherders whiz or meander by is worth a thousand pictures and more words. To the outsider it is the antithesis of western order and system, but all the Indians seem to get along just fine…just remember one thing, “honk.”

· Indian food is some of the best in the world, and unsurprisingly the best is in India – what a great 10 days of eating I’ve just had. Nan bread and curry just won’t be the same anywhere else, and ice cream never tasted so good as when it soothes the spice-laden mouth after Indian food IN India.

· Indians do not nod their head up and down to acknowledge communication; they shake their head from side to side in a figure eight, which to the westerner looks exactly like a head-bobble. Doing this as a westerner is great fun.

· Whether the big cities or the rural villages, women and their elaborate, colorful saris is the most ingrained image in my head. Beautiful, simply beautiful.

· The infamous Indian caste system is not as apparent to the traveler’s eyes as I thought it would be, but one conversation with an Indian reveals that it is, like most hierarchical social systems in the world based on race, ethnicity, money and/or class, alive and well….

· To be IN India when Slumdog Millionaire triumphed at the Oscars was simply impeccable timing…and speaking of impeccable timing:

· While in Calcutta visiting Mother Teresa's tomb, we had the privilege of witnessing Martin Luther King III, during a re-tracing of his father's steps through Ghandi's India 50 years earlier, pay his respects, and give a speech to the 150 onlookers. This was unplanned and unthinkable timing, as the 20 photographers and journalists documented, of remembering two of our world's most revered symbols of peace and love. We just sat back and soaked in the moment. Here’s an article about our surprising morning:

http://in.news.yahoo.com/139/20090226/808/tnl-martin-luther-king-iii-visits-mother.html

· The Indian rickshaw is being replaced by the “auto” or “auto-rickshaw,” also known as the Tuk-Tuk in other countries, but along with the Taj Mahal and the sari dresses, will always be a symbol of India.

If you ever have a chance, go to India.

Keep in mind that your senses will be challenged, your wits will be outwitted and your instincts and intuition will be severely flummoxed, but if your travel motivations are true, it might not be better anywhere on earth. Don’t drive anywhere, cross a street at your own risk, but have the time of your life.

Back to Thailand, for just a few more weeks, next week.

Pictures above:

1. & 2.: An Indian village outside of Ongole. Bright colors and warm smiles...India!

3. Paige, in her beautiful sari, with one of our group's hosts.

4. Martin Luther King III visits Mother Teresa's resting place in Kolkata. Incredible timing for our group who just soaked in the unexpected moment.

5. The classic Indian rickshaw.

Thailand's Islands and Beaches

2009-02-17T12:19:00.003+07:00

Okay, it took a little while, but the Tuk-Tuk finally took a ride to Thailand's famous islands and beaches. The most popular places to go for foreigners, for a variety of reasons, are the islands of Phuket (pronounced "Pu -ket," no "f" sound for those of you chuckling right now), Ko Samui and Hua Hin. Last week, thanks to some friends from Sweden, Paige and I got away for an all-too short trip to Hua Hin.

My one piece of advice for travelers to Thailand's islands and beaches? Do whatever you can to find your own secluded spot, which generally means avoiding the places mentioned above. All the worst of farang are revealed, in oh so many ways, on Thailand's islands and beaches...

No more rides on the Tuk-Tuk Talker until February 28th, due to a 10-day trip to India starting tomorrow. And upon my return, for one week, we'll take a ride on the Rickshaw Talker. See you then.

Pictures above:

1. - 3. Scenes from the most beautiful parts of Thailand.

4. As Thailand becomes more and more well known throughout the world as an alternative tropical destination, scenes like this one in front of private hotels are all-too common.

5. Paige finds the cutest Tuk-tuk driver in all of Thailand....

The Real Thailand

2009-02-09T12:59:00.003+07:00

The other side of the coin to last week’s closer look at Bangkok is the area also known as “the real Thailand” (mega-cities can become frighteningly similar worldwide).

And it’s the rest of Thailand, Tuk-Tuk Talkers, that makes this place uniquely special for the traveler and temporary local.

Mountains with indigenous people groups, tropical forests with the ultra-exotic banana leafs and native animal species, beaches with lots of foreign tourists, islands with more foreign tourists, lowlands for rice growing, vast open fields and expansive land with the occasional village of people that barely even think of themselves as Thai…it’s the diversity, and the outright opposite of the oppressive mega-city, that makes Thailand so appealing and such an irresistible travel destination. This week, our ride on the Tuk-Tuk takes a brief look at all of these various regions of “the land of the free.”

In the north, Chiang Mai is many people’s most favorite place in Thailand due to the overgrown village environment, the variety of outdoor activities including river-rafting and elephants (but so far no river-rafting on elephants), the enjoyment of indoor activities such as Thai cooking and massage classes and an overall laid-back, “we’re not a metropolitan city and we’re proud of it” atmosphere.

In the south, which is one long, Baja-like stretch leading to Malaysia, the beaches and islands dominate with the Andaman Sea on one side and the Gulf of Thailand on the other. Though developing quickly, often without regulations or eco-conscious restraint, these locations provide everything the foreign traveler dreams of from his cubicle in the West. In addition to the islands and beaches, smaller towns provide yet another peak at rural Thailand life, this time of the tropical nature. Nakhon Si Thamarat and Surat Thani are two cities that I’ve experienced first-hand that welcome travelers, but are still authentic Thai experiences.

For a true experience of “far east” culture, heading to Eastern and Northeastern Thailand will reveal wide open fields of rice, an always teetering economical existence based on what the earth yields and small villages of rural “Isan,” a culture of people that goes back as far as the Bronze Age, and includes both Lao and Cambodians in addition to Thai.

Isan has its own language, food, customs and history. Long ago, someone drew up borders that created countries and divided up the Isan people. Same thing happened in the north of Thailand with Burma, Laos, Thailand and China. As an American, I’m not confronted with this reality much, but did you know that people came first, then countries? Taking some time to experience and discover Isan culture would put you in a very elite group of travelers.

All of these places in “the rest of Thailand” are accessible by overnight buses or trains, which generally cost about $18 - $22 for a one-way trip. Short flights are also a possibility and about three times the cost of a train, but still affordable by Western standards.

Together, the regions of Thailand are only growing in their reputation as a traveler’s paradise. Development and other environmental concerns are real, but any industry that helps some overlooked people outside of Bangkok put bread on the table, or in this case, rice on the mat, is good to see.

Why no pictures of those islands and beaches? Well, my experience in Thailand has been a bit different than your’s probably would be. But that, my friends, will be changing this week. Oh yes, that will be changing as I take to the sun, sand and surf of Siam. Come back next week for a glimpse of paradise…

Pictures above:

1. In the heat of Southeast Asia, refreshing rivers in the tropical mountains like this one outside of Nakhon Si Thammarat are an oasis for the foreigner.

2. Life outside the big city has its rewards (here, hammocks in a small village outside of Ubon in the east of Thailand).

3. Elephants, who used to be an invaluable source of work and contribution all over Thailand, have been reduced to entertainment for foreigners and their wild population is dwindling - the Asian Elephant is officially an endangered species.

4. A typical Isan meal of fish, chicken, vegetables and spices that pack a flavorful punch.

5. No better place to be in Thailand for festivals than Chiang Mai - Sean and Paige would agree.

Sights, Sounds and Sun in Bangkok

2009-02-03T15:13:00.003+07:00

Bangkok has quite the reputation worldwide.

While it continues to be the central metropolitan location in all of Southeast Asia, the business and transportation hub to all other locations in this region and the welcoming city for all tourists with their eyes on the beaches and islands, Bangkok retains its status as a bit of an enigma to the outside world. Sex trade and political instability continue to raise eyebrows in the Western world and keep Bangkok (and Thailand) on the edge of being considered a developed, reliable, trustworthy nation (as opposed to other Asian nations to the north).

What is Bangkok like for the temporary local, here now for over three months? This week’s ride on the Tuk-Tuk Talker explores this city further and provides a few insights for the tourist who spends more time here than just a layover.

Sights
While there are tourist sights to visit throughout the city, the kind of tourism is different than Western nations. Museums are not the focal point, the various temples are. History is not necessarily located on a wall in an air-conditioned quarantine, but might be a crumbling monument found in Bangkok or the former capital, Ayutthaya, to the north. The experience of this city is found in exploring the former Royal Palace and temple, cruising along the Chao Praya River downstream and stopping at a market for a local Thai-style lunch, then walking through Chinatown before the sun goes down and the revelry of the evening begins. One doesn’t necessarily come to Bangkok to complete a sightseeing checklist extraordinaire, but to experience Thai culture found in markets, districts and participating in the daily and nightly lives of the natives.

Impressions
Parts of Bangkok are very rewarding and enjoyable for the tourist or temporary local. But you have to pick your spots and plan your route and location very carefully…by day, you may find yourself stuck in an unexpected traffic jam (the above ground transit system, BTS Sky Train, comes highly recommended and air-conditioned) and by night in an unexpected red-light district, which is unfortunately why so many foreigners venture to Bangkok in the first place.

Like so many cities, Bangkok can be broken down into smaller districts, which helps the new arrival to get oriented. The old city with the Grand Palace on the river, Chinatown, the seats of government and the shopping district are all the places where you will see the most farang (white foreigners usually from in order of quantity: Australia, America, Sweden, United Kingdom, Germany, Canada, France).

One big attraction for the foreigner to Thailand and Southeast Asia is the price. Once you’ve paid the pretty penny, krown or baht to get here, lodging, transportation and food options abound, coming at all different prices, which can make this part of the world particularly appealing for the budget traveler. A nice hotel for $30/night and a filling lunch on the street for $1 can indeed bring a smile to the traveler’s face.

Conclusions
Growing up in Los Angeles, I’ve learned that I fare better in cooler environments that aren’t so conducive to the unappealing aspects of the world’s largest cities such as traffic, pollution, endless concrete, over-urbanized population and the economic disparity between street sellers, labor and executives. Bangkok is the epitome of this type of mega-city. Many people thrive off of this, would be refreshed (especially this time of year in the middle of winter) with the incessant heat and humidity, usually between 90 and 100 degrees Farenheit and can manage through these disadvantages of large cities. I can’t quite get past it myself and, well, can often be caught daydreaming about the Swiss Alps or the rolling meadows of Sweden when I’m in my tuk-tuk traffic jam sucking on fumes.

Bangkok can work for you, but you must be prepared mentally for this type of city.

Pictures above:

1. The Democracy Monument, located in the middle of the tourist district of Bangkok, marks the triumphant change from Absolute Monarchy to Constitutional Monarchy which took place in 1932.

2. One of the more popular wats, temples, in Bangkok is the Wat Pho, the Reclining Buddha. This is one of the only pictures that can capture the magnitude of this lazy Buddha, which is practically bursting from the temple.

3. The Chao Praya River is a central part of the Bangkok experience, serving trade and tourism for centuries.

4. China's influence in Asia extends far beyond its borders. The Chinese immigrant population in Siam, old Thailand, and now has created an entire district (not all that different from larger American cities with Chinese or International Districts), which is one of the most popular tourist areas in Bangkok.

5. Sean finishes his latest ride on a tuk-tuk (pass the oxygen).

Buddhism in Thailand: Temples, Monks, Spirit Houses and More

2009-01-27T10:02:00.002+07:00

Integral to any cultural exploration of Thailand is a consideration of the religious heart of this land, Theravada Buddhism. Upon a visit to Thailand, whether your goal is the cities, the mountains and tribal lands or the beaches, you will be surrounded by religious and cultural icons and symbols of Buddhism.

Temples and Buddha images
Everywhere - similar to churches in the West. See pictures below for the unique Thai-style temple architecture. Inside of temples are images and icons of the Buddha. Self-awareness with regards to dress, behavior and the pointing of your feet inside temples is of supreme importance for the tourist in Thailand.

Monks
Ubiquitous – you can’t miss them if you’re near a temple. Most Thai men and some Thai women will become a monk at some point as a passage of rite, if not something more religious. Shaved heads and robes, along with the daily morning ritual of alms collection, give the monks away (but you still see them in internet cafes, with ipods dangling from their ears and carrying about casually in their daily activities).

Spirit Houses
On the grounds of many houses and virtually all businesses adhering to Buddhist principles, spirit houses are believed to be a home for the spirits who otherwise might be tempted to torment those not paying homage with the daily sustenance of food and drink and tender, loving care…

Miscellaneous
Taxi drivers and others may have fresh-cut flowers in the shape of a necklace somewhere nearby. There is no specific day of the week which Buddhists have set aside to worship, but instead do so as they please, but specific holidays are often popular times in the temples.

In general, Thai culture is very modest in clothing and behavior, which may come as a surprise to many farang (foreigner), but all the places with open consumption of alcohol and other carnal desires that Bangkok is famous for are for the purpose of, well, farang!

Pictures above:

1. Thailand's most famous sight, the Grand Palace complex, includes Wat Prat Kow, a temple of royalty.

2. Chiang Mai's highest regarded temple.

3. A Spirit House in front of a "Seven" on Ramkhamheang Rd. on the outskirts of Bangkok.

4. A taxi-driver displays a spirit necklace, fresh flowers for protection.

5. Paige and Sean catch a moment by a waterfall in Southern Thailand.

A Walk Through a Thai Market

2009-01-19T11:02:00.002+07:00

One of the joys of being in a developing country is the genuine local flavor of nearly everything, except in the bigger cities, of course. You just don’t have the big imports or the presence of large, multinational businesses, unless you want it. In developing countries, you have to go find the homogenous corporation instead of it finding you. Here’s to authenticity!

A local market, where freshness and friendliness abound, can be just the place to connect: Connect with the people, connect with the fruit, literally, of the land, connect in a convivial way with the country you are exploring. Many people already know this about France and other European corners where “fresh” and “in season” are the highest complements, but the same is true in Thailand.

So we take a walk through a Thai market: All four food groups are represented (even though judging by a quick Google search, the “four basic food groups” is so 1975): Fruits and vegetables in abundance, meats of all kinds both trustworthy and frightening (to the foreigner), rice, and even some dairy seen in the stacks and stacks of eggs.

These neighborhood markets are found throughout Thailand and SE Asia, quite often the equivalent of a local grocery store, especially in rural villages.

More of a pictoral blog entry this week than a textual, I hope you enjoyed our walk and can get to your own local farmer’s market soon.

Pictures above:

1. Most markets are outdoors, but this one in Chiang Mai is large and in-charge indoors.

2. One of the more dazzling-looking fruits found in Thailand, but usually these types of fruits are all show, and the go just isn't very tasty. I'll stick to my peaches and cherries in season, thanks.

3. These are frogs with their hearts ripped out to prove freshness. Anything for freshness!

4. A typical outdoor market scene, this one found in the Southern Thailand area of Nakhon Si Thammarat.

5. Duriane, the most famous of unique Southeast Asian fruits, is known for smelling really, really bad and tasting okay. The smelling bad part I can confirm...

Top 10 Best Ways to Offend Thai People

2009-01-12T17:37:00.004+07:00

Just a fun look at unexpected cultural rules you are sure to break if you don’t read this, or something like it, before you come to Thailand:

1. Disrespect the King (don’t stand in honor at 8am, 6pm or before a movie and always make sure to lick that stamp with the King’s image).

2. As often as possible, as blatantly as possible, show everyone the bottom of your feet.

3. On that note, make sure you step over things lying on the ground or floor and especially step over people who might be laying in your way in a hallway, aisle or line.

4. Touch the top of a Thai person’s head as often as possible.

5. When entering someone’s home, do not take off your shoes and make sure to get dust, dirt, sand and muck all over the floor…

6. When entering a temple, don’t take off your shoes and always point your feet directly at a Buddha image (bonus points if you show the bottom of your feet to the Buddha image).

7. If you’re a man, touch a female monk. If you’re a woman, touch a male monk- oh yeah, they love that.

8. Kiss and touch your lover in public – pda, pda, pda!

9. Wear shorts above the knee, tank tops or just go with your bathing suit when you’re not on the beach.

10. Show your outrage publicly when the service, personal comfort or convenience is not the same as at home!

Special bonus advice on how to best offend a Thai person (and hopefully others):

11. Make the already-cheap prices for a Westerner cheaper by taking advantage of the street vendor, server or other representatives of famous Thai hospitality and their non-confrontational personal approach, getting that tuk-tuk ride for $1.50 rather than $2.00 or that fried chicken wing for 30 cents rather than 45 cents…way to go, capitalist, be proud.

Pictures above:

1. A typical meal gathering in rural Thailand or many homes in the cities. Sitting on the floor increases the likelihood that you’ll break the “bottom of the feet” cultural rule – be extra careful.

2. Bugs, like these locusts, are “edible” and usually, um…well, crunchy.

3. Do yourself a favor and just don’t mess with drugs in Southeast Asia!

4. Buddha images are not only found in the many wats or temples, but also in various outdoor locations like this one in the middle of the commercial district of Bangkok – another likely place for visiting tourists to severely disrespect Thai culture simply out of ignorance.

5. Paige celebrated a birthday this past week, so we went to top floor of the Baiyoke Hotel for a buffet and view of Bangkok from Thailand’s tallest building and the 28th tallest in the world. Happy Birthday, Paige.

A Dark Side of Southeast Asia

2009-01-05T21:49:00.003+07:00

Beyond the beaches, elephants, food, hospitality and tuk-tuks, there exists a sad reality in Thailand and throughout Southeast Asia.

One more consequence to the inexplicable lack of governmental leadership in this part of the world is the rampant human trafficking, usually women and children for sex, that thrives within the corruption-laden authorities and law enforcement entities from India to Vietnam. Worse, as any brief internet search indicates, human trafficking is not isolated to this region, but is a problem worldwide, including even North America and Europe.

An article recently written by a syndicated columnist in the U.S. is the latest attempt to shed light on a problem that hides in the dark corners of ignored parts of the world:

http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/opinion/2008587333_opin05kristof.html

Please read to increase your own awareness of "modern day slavery" and if you are so moved, here is one of many resources to help stop human trafficking:

http://www.catwinternational.org/

A Communist Christmas: Adventures in Visa Travel

2008-12-28T08:16:00.006+07:00

There are only five countries left in the world that subscribe to Karl Marx’s views about life, where the national religion is by definition atheism. You know about China, Cuba and North Korea. You may know that Vietnam is still Communist. The one you don’t know is the fifth and last Communist country in the world, this other country that you may have never even heard of and certainly have never thought about: Laos.

Little Laos.

That’s where I spent Christmas.

Not by choice.

One word:

Visa.

Those in the travel community love to tell stories about the escapades and bureaucratic back-flips needed to acquire tourist visas in certain parts of the world. Up until I arrived in Thailand, the only story I had about visa "fun" was having to pay double as an American what Swedes pay for a Russian visa – I assumed it was just leftover bitterness from the Cold War.

Now I understand.

At least it’s good blog material...

Here’s how I ended up in Laos for Christmas:

1) If you fly into Thailand, you can stay for 30 days until you have to start playing the visa game.

2) I didn’t know beforehand that I would be here for longer than 30 days.

3) You can’t get a Thai visa IN Thailand. Yeah, I’m glad you think that’s funny.

4) To Cambodia for the day, but the border extensions are only for 15 days, a law two weeks old and still not posted on appropriate websites. No help whatsoever, and a day wasted.

5) The Thai Embassy in Laos gives 60-day visas. Where? Laos. What’s that? It’s a country between Thailand and Vietnam. Really? I had no idea.

6) I had to get there before December 23rd or start paying day-by-day to be in Thailand.

7) Despite two blank pages in my passport, and after a two hour wait in line at the Thai Embassy in Laos, and after an overnight train ride and hotel booking just to get there, I was told I needed more pages in my passport. Visa denied.

8) US Embassy to the rescue – 20 minutes in and out. God Bless America.

9) But, I had to stay an extra day in Laos due to my visa page problem. That day was Christmas Day. Laos is a Communist country. It’s all such an adventure full of irony and, hopefully, entertainment if all you have to do is read about it.

10)Since you have to turn over your passport for the one-day processing, I was officially without a passport in a Communist country…on Christmas.

Paige and I made the most of our unexpected first Christmas together – and we’re already able to look back and laugh at our (mis) adventures, and the stories we can tell, about forced visa travel.

I can hardly wait to see what New Year’s holds.

Happy New Year to you from the Tuk-Tuk Talker.

See you back here in Thailand in 2009!

Pictures above:

1. The Lao and Communist flags fly in unison throughout most of the country.

2. The visa game line at the Thai Embassy in Ventiane, the capital city of Laos. Don't miss the Laos version of the Tuk-Tuk!

3. In between twice-daily embassy runs, Paige and I squeezed in some sightseeing at this famous landmark in Ventiane, the Patouxay, or Laos' Arc d' Triomphe, since Laos is a former French colony.

4. An impressively festive Christmas display in front of the main hotel in Ventiane.

5. The beautiful fountain in Old European Square, the center of town.

Christmas in Thailand

2008-12-21T08:57:00.003+07:00

Part of the deal in making a spontaneous move to Thailand in November is sacrificing being home for the holidays. For me this is the second year in-a-row away from the west coast of the U.S. for Christmas and, for the second year in-a-row, I give a big blog shout out to my mother and family for their support of my travels and commitments. Skype is the most favorite present this time of year.

Culturally, Thailand is a Buddhist nation. 99% of people are Buddhist, whether they are a monk or non-practicing. What kind of place does Christmas have in a country such as this? Well…

Thailand is also the most free, least corrupted, non-communist, commercial and globalized country of the Burma-Thailand-Cambodia-Laos-Vietnam region of SE Asia. Most Thai people have a curiosity and fascination for the West, and particularly America, that welcomes culturally American lifestyles and preferences. Commercially, Thailand is the most capitalist of this immediate region and, I think you can see where this is going…

Aside from the beautifully devout churches of Thailand that are celebrating the meaning of the season, Christmas in Thailand means everything that Christmas in America means: Buy, buy, buy, spend, spend, spend! It’s the most wonderful time of the year for commercialization.

In the West, the meaning of Christmas and modern Christmas commercialization morph into one. A Christmas tree is found next to a nativity scene and we celebrate the divine birth in a manger by running up credit cards. Even this irony is lost in the busyness of the season. Culture and religion intermingle, uncomfortably for many.

In Thailand, however, it’s just unapologetic commercialization. That big and beautifully decorated tree in front of the department store? No real or deeper meaning at all – it means “This is the time of year where we must shop a little more.” All those beautiful Christmas lights? They’re all connected to commerce. Traditional Christmas songs are only overheard when you’re in the mall.

The considerations and commentaries surrounding culture, religion, globalization, travel, spirituality and economics are far too expansive to wrestle with here, but experiencing Christmas through the eyes of a non-culturally Christian, but still-capitalist, worldview has been fascinating.

Give a creative gift, cherish the time with your family, celebrate the meaning of the season.

Merry Christmas from Thailand.

Pictures above:

1. The biggest Christmas tree I have ever seen, in a Bangkok mall.

2. The celebration of Christmas among the Christian believers in a Buddhist nation is inspiring to watch.

3. High schoolers caroling at a street market in Lampang about an hour outside of Chiang Mai in Thailand's north. Paige's work brings her all over Thailand.

4. Anna, one of Paige's students, gets a bit lost in the Christmas decorations.

5. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to you and yours from Paige and Sean (as close to a Christmas card as you'll see from me this year).

Kingly Love

2008-12-15T22:17:00.002+07:00

If anyone coming to Thailand does even the most basic cultural research prior to arrival, the first thing all the books say is “don’t say anything bad about the King!”

King Bhumibol Adulyadej, who took the throne in 1946, is accorded an almost divine reverence, with titles such as Phra Chao Yu Hua (Lord Upon our Heads) or Chao Chiwit (Lord of Life). Holding very little actual political power by the Thai Constitution, the Thai people look upon their king as a spiritual father figure and, particularly as the King grows older, celebrate him in every possible way.

The punishment for speaking badly about the king is up to seven years in prison, foreigners included!

All images of the King, of which there are many of the King, Queen and Royal Family throughout the country (notice all my capital letters, just in case!) are to be respected and honored by everyone.

The anthem to the King is played over loudspeakers throughout the cities of Thailand and precisely 8:00am and 6:00pm every day, effectively bringing all bustling streets and busy markets to a halt. If you hear it, you must stand and be respectful, similar to hearing the National Anthem in the United States (and other countries). If you go to a movie in Thailand, there is a tribute to the King before the movie starts, for which all are expected to stand.

Politically, the King does have some power stemming from sheer respect and a shrewd discretionary use of his revered authority. This King has been on the throne through 17 (!) military coups and 26 different prime ministers, but the love of the King among the Thai people comes from his affectionate relationship with the people.

One of his first acts as King was a visit to the rural lands of Thailand and help them turn from growing opium to growing rice. His pursuits of sailing and accomplishments as a jazz musician and composer are admired and December 5th is the King’s birthday, officially Father’s Day throughout Thailand. Yellow is the Kingly color, worn and celebrated often, though the recent political demonstrations usurped the King’s color for their cause, leaving yellow-loving Thais a bit perplexed as to whether or not to wear yellow during this current political season.

Through the eyes of a foreigner, Thai love for their King is refreshing, despite the offense to freedom of speech, which is so valuable in any democracy. After 17 coups in 60 years, is it any wonder that the Thai people’s lack of trust in their government creates a much-needed bond between King and people? Given the continual political unrest and lack of stability with all Thai governmental authority, having a King and Royal Family in which they can trust has no doubt provided a much needed foundation in the Thai quest to create a trustworthy system of government.

As the King ages – he had to cancel his annual speech to the nation on his birthday last week –, Thais know their King won’t always be with them, so their affection soars for this King who has shown such care for his people for over 60 years. Given the history of Kingly abuse of power and authority worldwide, King Bhumibol Adulyadej is one who we can all agree should be celebrated by stopping and standing up at 8:00am and 6:00pm every day.

Pictures above:

1. - 4. Pictures and images throughout the country of the King of Thailand.

5. Sean eats a creepy-crawly at a Thai market....

Got a Gripe? Seize Your Local Airport: Thai Politics 101

2008-12-08T14:12:00.004+07:00

I’d rather not use the second ride on the Tuk-Tuk Talker to share impromptu soundings about the state of Thailand’s political scene, but when something happens that headlines worldwide news for over a week, my credibility with my readers would be rightly questioned if acknowledgment was overlooked. So here we go.

By most counts, Thailand is still a developing nation and the political instability reflects this. Hovering somewhere between first and second in the socio-economic-political world, the democratic landscape throughout SE Asia is often volatile, occasionally violent and always interesting. Thailand, a constitutional monarchy (essentially “there is a King who answers to a constitution, so no official power”), has a governmental system which is seemingly much more trustworthy than its neighbors, but 40 years of democratically-elected officials has been marked by periods of military rule, numerous declarations of martial law and some violent episodes indicates that there is still a long way to go in the actual application of democratic principles and practice.

This latest incident actually started back in 2006 when the military seized the Parliament while the then-Prime Minister was away at a summit in Peru. Elections were held and a political party closely tied with the ousted party won in a corruption-filled election. Opposition parties gained strength and four months ago seized Parliament and staged a sit-in that last four months until they upped the anti and took over the airport for one week until the courts ruled that the current coalition party had won the election by fraud and disbanded the party.

The good news is that, for the most part, these protests were non-violent, but the violence was increasing and there was one fatality last week and injuries were multiplying, as well. The bad news is that Thailand has no leadership. This hasn’t changed and won’t be changing any time soon. As usual with these circumstances, it’s the less well-off, poor people who get hurt when the economy takes a beating from the seized airport and more privileged individuals and parties are dueling for power.

Who’s in charge now? Who will lead Thailand politically and economically into the Asian-centered global future? Will the hard-working Thai middle and lower classes (most people work six days-per-week just to make ends meet) ever have a chance to help themselves in any significant way? Just some of the questions in the wake of yet another season of political turmoil in Thailand.

That wasn’t much fun. Come back for a ride in a tuk-tuk next week for more about this enjoyable, and politically “exciting” country.

Pictures above:

1. The People's Alliance for Democracy (PAD) seizes their local airport for one week.

2. The Pro-Government protestors rally in response to the PAD airport hyjinx.

3. Thailand's flag: "Thailand" means "free lands."

4. A picture from a downtown scene with the king, the flag and a temple.

5. Sean and Paige with our plastic bags of Thai Iced Tea.

Talkin' Tuk-Tuks

2008-12-02T10:20:00.005+07:00

New York has the taxi.

London has the black “cab.”

The Venetians have their gondolas.

In Amsterdam, find yourself a bicycle.

Need to get around India? Take a rickshaw.

And when you come to Thailand, you have many options, but none are as fun as the tuk-tuk.

What the Tuk?

Welcome to Thailand, and the first entry of the Tuk-Tuk Talker.

I’m an American who was living a fairly normal American life then accidentally ended up in Sweden for a couple years, then even more accidentally ended up in Thailand for at least a few months – maybe longer. Stick around and find out.

When you’re following your heart and attempting to live life by watching for signs in the road that say “This way, please,” trusting that “this way” is indeed a good direction is the only obstacle between you and great adventures that are better than anything you could have imagined for yourself. And the people you meet along the way make for an extra special part of the journey.

This blog seeks to chronicle this “sign-trusting” adventure, share about those people along the way and otherwise provide some helpful commentary to travel, culture and other elements that make life more meaningful. And if the Tuk-Tuk Talker is simply a good procrastination tool for you once-per-week, then it’s all worth it for me. Thanks for browsing to the Tuk-Tuk Talker.

I love the U.S.A.

I will always remember fondly my Swedish sojourn and my Swedish friends.

But now I’m in Thailand. And looking forward to sharing the experience.

For an appropriate beginning there are two introductions that need to be made:

Located in the heart of South East Asia with neighbors Burma, Cambodia, Laos and Malaysia in the south, Thailand is usually the first stop on any South East Asian excursion. With Bangkok as its capital and Chiang Mai as a beloved northern city, Thailand’s 60 million people are as warm as the climate and make for a country that draws millions of tourists every year. Hospitality of people, natural beauty from coastline to jungles to mountains, rich and colorful culture and food that is world renowned make Thailand a great place to visit and a greater place to live.

However, these are not the reasons I am in Thailand.

I met Paige this summer and just a few short months later, I am living in Thailand. This quintessential Southern California girl followed the signs in the road which surprisingly pointed to Thailand and now she has lived and worked in Bangkok and the surrounding region for over two years giving of herself in admirable ways to a community of people that have embraced her. It’s a privilege to be here and complement her in any way I can. You will undoubtedly get to know Paige if you continue talkin’ tuk-tuks with me.

Thanks for checking out the Tuk-Tuk Talker.

See you next week from Thailand.